TEXTILE and fashion spanning more than 400 years have gone on display at The Bowes Museum.
The Josephine: A Women of Taste and Fashion opened last week and along with featuring the types of items the museum founder might have worn in her time, it also reveals what might have appealed to her had she been alive today.
The oldest item in the exhibition, which is entirely made up of items from the museum’s own collection, is an ecclesiastical cope hood, depicting the birth of Christ, which Josephine Bowes had bought.
Textile and fashion curator Rachel Whitworth said: “It is basically a panel of embroidery which would often show a scene from the Bible. They were used as a pictorial way to tell the stories because many of the people weren’t able to read the Bible.”
Part of the display also includes elaborate pieces of fabric, including seat covers, showing how people decorated their homes over various periods.
Among some of the jewellery on display is a belt which is know to be worn by Josephine because it features in a portrait of her wearing a pink dress. What is remarkable is the length of the belt, revealing how slim Josephine’s waist was.
However, all of it is costume jewellery.
Ms Whitworth said: “We know that her valuable jewellery, diamonds and things, were sold after her death and went towards the cost building the museum.”
There is also a display of Flemish, Italian and English lace that she collected and might have worn.
Among the collection are two dresses from 1850s and 1860s to show how elaborate fashion was in her time.
Alongside these is a dress from the 1950s by French designer Jacques Fath.
The curator explained it was chosen because it follows Christian Dior’s “New Look” style after the Second World War which was inspired by the thin waist and large skirts look of the 19th century.
This is followed by two pieces by Yves St Lauren, one from the late 1950s when he was working for Dior, and another from the 1970s under his own label. There is also a Yves St Lauren lace trouser suit from the 1990s and a couple of dresses by Jean Paul Gaultier.
Ms Whitworth said: “These are things that Josephine might have worn had she lived in the 20th and 21st century.”
l The exhibition runs until March 2026.
